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Patersons / Re: EMF Paterson on sale
« Last post by ssb73q on Today at 03:39:12 PM »
Hi, the Paterson was made in four calibers, .28, .31, .34, and .36. One experimental Paterson was made in .54.

Since the subject on the mug is the Texas Paterson, all those were .36.

The label of the mug, .40 caliber, is wrong.

Regards,
Richard
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Patersons / Re: EMF Paterson on sale
« Last post by mike116 on Today at 01:36:25 PM »
The first Paterson models were .28 caliber. 
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Griswold & Gunnison / Re: Historically Correct G & G's
« Last post by sourdough on Today at 01:23:19 PM »
Another G&G on GB, although not listed as such, "new old stock condition", min bid $225, no reserve, 0 bids, 1d left.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/683866515

Another G&G on GB, same condition, $265, no reserve, 0 bids, 2d left.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/682585747

I have no affiliation with the sellers.

Jim
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Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Wedge musings
« Last post by ssb73q on Today at 12:31:25 PM »
Hi Mike, I know you have a good solution to this wedge issue. The only potential issue of concern I have is the removal of metal at the end of the arbor. Have you ever had a arbor end fail because of using the 1/4" set screw? One other problem I have experienced with new wedges is where the spring isn't staked on square where the spring interferes with the wedge slot. It's a bear to rotate a staked in spring.

To the other members here that have a too loose a wedge that they can't resolve themselves, I suggest you contact Goon's to get your revolver wedge issue repaired. A too loose wedge is a killer of revolver accuracy.

Regards,
Richard

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Patersons / Re: EMF Paterson on sale
« Last post by omarkw on Today at 12:02:32 PM »
Thought they were 25s.          Mark
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Patersons / Re: EMF Paterson on sale
« Last post by Mad Dog Stafford on Today at 11:25:04 AM »
It should say .44 caliber?
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Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Wedge musings
« Last post by 45 Dragoon on Today at 10:46:51 AM »
The best way I've found to keep wedges from distorting is a corrected arbor fitting.  As far as wear, a set screw that resides in the end of the arbor (through to the wedge slot) can be screwed in to contact the wedge will compensate. This allows the original wedge to stay "the " wedge. If you want to return it back to original, a 1/4" x 28 screw cut to length will fit the bill.

 Also, removing the spring may be best if you're hardening the wedge .  .  .  .  .  .  just a thought .  .  .  .  (that's what I do! Lol!!)

Also, make sure the rear part of the wedge slot in the barrel isn't flush with (or past) the rear most part of the slot in the arbor.
The wedge contact points are front - the forward end of the arbor slot ,  and rear-  the rear part of the slot in the barrel. These are the 3 points of the triangulation.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Wedge musings
« Last post by ssb73q on Today at 10:03:09 AM »
Hi Hawg, that's a good tip for those that don't have the bluing salts. Thanks.

Regards,
Richard
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Patersons / Re: EMF Paterson on sale
« Last post by ssb73q on Today at 09:53:40 AM »
Hi, recently I offered a fleabay seller $20 for a couple of mugs, a Harpers Ferry and a Texas Paterson. They accepted my offer. These are the two mugs:



It's interesting that the person labeling the Paterson mug doesn't know much about the production Patersons, see:



Can you tell me what's wrong?

Regards,
Richard
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Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Re: Wedge musings
« Last post by Hawg on Today at 08:57:32 AM »
Heat it to red and cool it in water. Then submerge it in a pot of melted lead( keep in mind steel floats in lead) until lead no longer sticks to it and then let it cool on it's own.
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