20-30,000 psi? (That's getting into Ruger only territory)
The cap is supposed to be a gas seal?
Recommends filing a notch on the bottom of the cone? (Guess the "gas seal" isn't all that important!)
A notch in the hammer face removes less material for striking a cap and doesn't have to be as precise as a round hole.to locate on a pin. (The original notches were not as wide as our Italian copies)
The main springs were heavy to trap cap frags/ protect shooter/ ensure ignition (my opinion)
The installation of a cap post ALLOWS the reduction of mainspring power because it arrests any blowback rather than the hammer having the sole responsibility. Racking a hammer back with good authority will "throw" (as it's dislodged) any caps/frags away from possibly falling into the action.
A common misconception is that a weaker mainspring is the reason for unreliable ignition. It has just as much (if not more) to do with the action parts than the strength of the spring. Sure, a sledge hammer will pop a cap every time but it's not conducive for competition, ease of handling, long life of parts, fanning , etc. The simple installation of a cap post ALLOWS a hard to handle, heavy actioned cap gun to be as reliable and easy shooting as a fine tuned cartridge shooter. A "Race gun' if you will.
Yap, the video depicts that guys idea of why, what and how . . . . I like mine better! (At least I know to use half cock when removing/installing a cylinder!)
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