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Topics - LonesomePigeon

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1
Winchester / Winchester '94 in .32-20?
« on: April 30, 2019, 08:17:47 PM »
Was the Winchester Model 1894 ever manufactured in caliber .32-20?

 

2
Navy Models / Colt 2nd Gen 1851 Navy
« on: March 18, 2019, 07:38:31 AM »
Here's a pic of a Colt 2nd Gen 1851 Navy I found at a local shop.

3
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Chambers not lined up with bore
« on: March 16, 2019, 08:19:59 PM »
 On one of my 1851 Navy's I noticed the chambers don't line up exactly correct with the bore. With the hammer cocked, you look down the bore and see the "crescent moon" chamber walls. For perspective, looking down the bore from the muzzle the crescent moon would be visible on your right. In other words the cylinder is rotating a bit too far when it reaches lockup.

Can this be corrected by simply making the hand shorter? Or would shortening the hand cause a whole domino effect on all the other action parts?

4
General Discussion / Reason for left or right rifling twist
« on: February 24, 2019, 06:30:12 AM »
I've often seen the question posed, why right or left twist and what difference would it make? This video is about a Winchester 1886 but it may shed some light on the subject. It could apply to any top strap revolver with a screwed in barrel but it also makes me wonder if there could be some relationship between barrel twist and which direction the wedge enters from on open top revolvers. Watch at about 8:55.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdq9Y9bqxCQ&t=3s

5
Winchester / Model '94 .38-55
« on: February 05, 2019, 06:33:42 PM »
My Grandpa gave me this gun, a Winchester Model '94 .38-55 sporting rifle made in 1894. It's been refinished but the bore looks pretty good. Now I have to learn how to make some black powder ammo for it.

6
Leather / old fast draw holster?
« on: December 18, 2018, 07:57:22 AM »
Look at this holster, it appears to have some modifications for possible fast draw. I think they could also be just to keep the holster from bouncing around while riding a horse or working.

https://www.riverjunction.com/5215

7
Walkers & Dragoons / 3rd Model Dragoon
« on: October 07, 2018, 05:27:01 PM »
Trying to post a pic from my computer. Colt 2nd Gen 3rd Model Dragoon set.

8
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Cherry Red case hardening compound
« on: August 15, 2018, 08:18:45 PM »
 The trigger pull on my Uberti 1851 was super light, about 1.5 lbs., out of the box. The Western Regionals SASS was near me and the Cowboy & Indian Store was there. I had him do a quick job on the hammer and trigger to give me a 2.5 - 3.0 lb pull. He did it right there while I watched. He filed the full cock notch and the trigger sear.
I have some Cherry Red case hardening compound. My question is, would it be beneficial to re-harden the full cock notch and/or trigger sear? Any problem with re-hardening the full cock notch on a hammer that has already been case hardened with the Italian chemical case hardening?

9
I am thinking of dovetailing in a brass blade front sight on my Uberti 1851 Navy. I have the dovetail cutting guide so it shouldn't be too hard. My main question is about how to remove and reinstall the loading lever stud on the underside of the barrel. Does it matter which direction I drift it out?

10
General Discussion / A good way to load percussion revolvers.
« on: July 20, 2018, 09:53:13 PM »
Since it's been slow of late I thought I would share a new to me loading technique. It's pretty simple actually. You just find the charge at which when the loading lever is fully depressed you get a moderately compressed charge. By "fully depressed" I mean the loading lever is able to go down the same as if the cylinder were empty. So you are putting enough powder in that there is no airspace but not so much powder that the mechanical motion of the loading lever is impeded. In this way each chamber receives the exact same amount of compression.

Before I give some examples I must say that with each gun and each powder measure it may be different, since individual guns may have different sized cylinder chambers and individual powder measures may throw different amounts. The following charges are just what has worked in my guns with my powder measure. You will have to experiment to find the charge that is appropriate with your gun and your measure. In case any newbies are reading just remember, never leave an airspace between the powder and the ball, as that could blow up the gun and hurt you.


With my Armi San Marco Walker the charge I use is 45 grains of Swiss 2F plus a .457" round ball. With this charge I got consistent 2" groups at 15 yards.

With my Uberti 1860 Army I used 30 grains of Goex 3F plus a .457 round ball. I actually only measured one group because it was so good I didn't feel the need to shoot any more paper and went right to the steel targets. The group was 5 shots in 1 1/4" plus 1 flyer that hit about 1" above the main group. The flyer was my fault because my eyes got blurry and I foolishly took the shot anyways.

11
Walkers & Dragoons / Walker's on sale
« on: June 17, 2018, 08:02:30 AM »
I don't know the person who originally posted this and I don't know the gun shop. I just found this posted on another forum and know nothing about it.

Walker's on sale for $249.99
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,61309.0.html

I did a search and I assume this is the place selling them:
http://tannerssportcenter.com/

If this is legit it's certainly the best price I've ever seen.


12
General Discussion / Old West town for sale
« on: June 17, 2018, 07:48:42 AM »
Just saw this and thought it was interesting. I have nothing to do with the sale.

 https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/realestate/a-real-life-westworld-with-a-violent-past-is-for-sale-in-california-for-under-dollar1-million--take-a-look-inside-the-ghost-town/ss-AAyEwBD?ocid=spartanntp


13
General Discussion / Which cap n' ball revolvers have you tried?
« on: June 14, 2018, 10:10:18 PM »
So which cap n' ball revolvers have you tried? Here's what I've tried, in the approximate order in which I tried them.

1847 Walker
1858 Remington .44
Third Model Dragoon
1851 Navy
1858 Remington .36
1860 Army
1862 Police


My most favorite is probably the 1851 Navy.


15
Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / Loose arbors.
« on: April 10, 2018, 08:08:24 PM »
I have 2 Colt's with loose arbors. One is a 2nd Gen 3rd Model Dragoon and the other is a Signature Series 1851 Navy. I have heard the solution is to drill out the staking pin in the back of the frame, unscrew the arbor, coat the threads with Red Locktite, screw the arbor back in and re-stake. I now have access to a friend's drill press so I am thinking of trying this myself.

My questions are, how do you know how deep to drill when drilling out the staking pin? And, if you drill too deep with it cause major problems?

Oh yeah, one other question. When you screw the arbor back in and let the Locktie set, should you put the barrel back on and put the wedge in as the Locktite dries?

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