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Author Topic: Soap OIl...  (Read 2494 times)

Offline Stillwater

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Soap OIl...
« on: August 26, 2014, 02:43:10 PM »
I've been reading about black powder lubricants all over the Internet. One term I keep reading is "Soap Oil..."

Can anyone tell me exactly what "Soap OIl" is?

Bill
A man enters into contention and his mouth calls for strokes.

Offline BartSr

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2014, 09:36:45 AM »
Maybe it's "Murphy's Oil Soap" ???  :-\
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Offline Stillwater

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2014, 11:07:39 AM »
Maybe it's "Murphy's Oil Soap" ???  :-\

Thank you, I'll pursue that and sde where it goes.

Bill
A man enters into contention and his mouth calls for strokes.

Offline Hawg

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2014, 02:39:50 AM »
Never heard of it but Murphy's is used in a lot of homemade lubes.
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy and tasteth good with ketchup.

Offline Tom-ADC

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2014, 07:52:35 AM »
Some use Ivory soap, the famous Felix lube uses it,
http://www.castpics.net/subsite/Lube/Felix.html

Offline mazo kid

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2014, 01:30:26 PM »
Here are a couple lube recipes using Murphy's Oil Soap, taken from another forum:

Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.

Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools. "


Offline Stillwater

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Re: Soap OIl...
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2014, 03:14:33 PM »
Thanks Mazo, I will try to mix up something out of this...

Bill
A man enters into contention and his mouth calls for strokes.