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Topics - Dave Shooter

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Percussion Caps and Primers / New and improved Cash inline capper
« on: September 23, 2019, 11:43:22 AM »
So I was shooting at the NMLRA Nationals last week when a friend comes by and asks
"Have you seen these?"
"Is that the new Cash capper?"
"Yes" says he.
"No, I haven't"
"They have them over on commercial row.  You can bring your guns in and try them out."
"Cool" says I.  "How much they want?"
"Two for $25"
"How much for one?"
"$12.50" he says.
"Whadda ya want two for?"
"Different brands of caps"
"Ah so"

A little while later I'm sitting behind the line and he comes by and throws one in my lap.
"What's this?"
"Keep it"

The new Cash capper is supposed to work with all c&b revolvers, has side loading, and positive retention of the cap in the feed area.

I used it a bit and can report the following.
The good: it worked fine with Rem #11s and RWS.  It worked on an inline caplock, a sidelock, an Uberti .36 1858, a ROA, and an Uberti 1860.  The side load seems easier to use, and I like the way a cap "snaps" into the feed lips when you push the slide follower.

The bad: CCI #11s can tip over inside of it.  Jim reported he couldn't get Rem #10s into his.

The mundane: holds 15 usable caps.  I wouldn't put too much pressure on it to seat the cap as it's still thin brass.  If you need them seated hard that would still be another step.

Fairly inexpensive and seems to work so long as you use a brand of caps it likes.

Hunting / Some things that I like
« on: February 27, 2019, 05:36:33 PM »
From Christmas Eve.

Got the rifle as a Father's Day gift a few years ago.  Finally got around to making meat with it!

General Discussion / Friendship Fall Shoot
« on: September 07, 2018, 06:38:14 PM »
NMLRA Nationals start tomorrow!
BP shooting for just about every discipline.
Commercial Row (open to the public) will be best this weekend.
I plan to get there Tuesday; spending most time on the pistol line.

Ask The Experts / Marine revolvers
« on: August 19, 2018, 03:53:23 AM »
Got a question for the historians.  What, if any, cap and ball revolvers were used by the US Marines?

I've got an old friend and mentor who flew on phrogs in Vietnam.  He's into guns but doesn't have any cap and ball.  Was thinking of getting him a gift.

Lead casting / Lead pipe
« on: July 09, 2018, 04:26:54 PM »
Gent had lead pipe listed for sale not too far away.  His wife wanted garage cleaned out sooner so he updated to free, and I was lucky enough to be first.

Here it is back of my truck:

Should keep me busy for awhile!

At The Range! / Fluted 1860
« on: June 16, 2018, 06:26:51 PM »
Just got back from Friendship.
One of the guns shot was this Uberti 1860:,2568.0.html,2731.0.html

Limited Time Fire target, 10 shots 10 minutes 25 yards

International target, 13 shots 10 high to score 25 yards

Decent, but did I mention this Army shoots WAY high?
Was aiming at the logo at the bottom of the target.

All these matches are shot 1 handed, unsupported.

Gunsmithing/Tuning/Parts & Repairs / No Name/PR 1860 functional again
« on: March 24, 2018, 11:28:59 AM »

Got the No Name/PR 1860 that wife got me at estate sale up and running.  It had a lot wrong with it.

Arbor was short.  This wound up being my first OT arbor mod.

Bent front sight.

Cam AFTER polishing.  Before it looked and felt like a file.  Surprised bolt leg hadn't been sawn through.

Trigger spring broke about the third time I cocked it.  It's been replaced with an Uberti spring, trimmed down.  Hand and bolt were both very rough.  Decided to replace them with current Pietta parts, cheap and readily available. 
 After deburring the cylinder bolt slots the Pietta bolt was snug in some and fit in all.  Trimmed bottom of legs so no longer hit trigger pin.

Forcing cone was uneven and offcenter.  Cut an 11 degree one.  There's  now a slight compound angle at the extreme edge but not bad.

This was a first for me, bp or modern: apparently after they pulled the broach through the bore they made little or no effort to crown the muzzle.  Note the displaced metal.  I'm going to leave this as is for now.

Bore has a series of "spots" for lack of better term in several of the grooves.  Scratched my head as to what they were till realized they line up with the rack indentions in outside of the barrel for loading lever!  This may wind up being my first experience in lead lapping.  Known about it for 30+ years, have just never done it.

Cones were battered to varying degrees.  Had been dry fired a bit.

Worst offense was that, when locked up in battery, the chambers were badly misaligned with bore.  To the point that hammer actually battered the cylinder to the side of cones.  Maybe that crummy forcing cone was intentional to compensate?  Anyway, I considered it unsafe to fire, certainly so with conicals.  Replacing cylinder was not an option since I was keeping this a cheap project, good luck finding proper dimension cylinder from a maker that went out of business in 1980.  (Pietta and Uberti cylinders are too large in diameter back at the ratchet and would've had to been turned down, along with other mod.)  I decided to relocate the bolt window in the frame, hand filed it.

You can see how much I laterally opened up the window.

Considered putting a shim in the gap, also thought of drilling the frame for a set screw for bolt to ride against.  I suppose welding would be the most correct answer, but that is outside my current skill set.  For now I have a washer on the bolt screw, between the bolt and frame.  Tension from the trigger keeps the bolt over in the position shown.  Not optimum nor conducive to long life, but it works.

Bolt legs are a bit shorter on the Pietta part so would up having bolt drop just prior to the lead ins.

Finally got out to shoot it last week.  Went to cap it after loading, CCI 10 went on first nipple just fine.  Second one no chance of getting 10 on, CCI 11 had to be forced on.  Rest mixed bag.  After getting home found 3 nipples would let a CCI 11 be pushed on and rotated freely.  Chucked the other 3 in drill press and stoned back down to cone shape.  #11 now pushes on and rotates with some resistance.

Casually shot point shoulder at 15 yards, 6 oclock hold.  That bent front sight was there for a reason!  Windage pretty much dead on.  With slot free hammer face and stout mainspring there was not a hint of cap ingestion.

Wound up being quite a bit of work.  Was this a waste of time?  No, it's been a learning experience; provided me a testbed; motivated me to finally buy Kuhnhausen's SAA book; and got an old hunk of iron functional again.

Powder / Powder Valley to carry black powder
« on: January 31, 2018, 12:53:17 PM »

At The Range! / Uberti Navy
« on: January 29, 2018, 09:27:58 AM »
Cold weather has mostly kept us inside, doing mods and otherwise getting ready for spring shooting season.But Sunday was 50 F and lots of sunshine so to the range!

Did some work on my Uberti 1851 and wanted to see how they performed.  Corrected arbor via Pettifogger method and installed cap post.

This was my time first shooting a gun with a cap post.  I know some folks love 'em and others won't have 'em, but I had to try for myself.  First six loaded with 20gr Fffg Old Eyn., Rem 11, and .380 buckshot.  One of the spent caps didn't want to go into the cap gutter on right recoil shield when gingerly cocking piece.  Vigorously thumbing back the hammer gave no troubles. So far so good so up to 25 grains for the next four cylinders full.

This is pretty close to a full load.  Note my 25 grain measure.

Bet you didn't realize Winchester and Remington make millions of cap and ball powder measures every year?

Bit of history.  Acquired this '51 last summer, lightly used.  Took it to Friendship bone stock.  It would occasionally try to ingest caps but was really accurate, even with short arbor.  I loaned it to a gentleman who won his class in the Open Top match; he liked it so much he also shot and won class in the Re-entry match, which is open to target sighted guns as well.  So I wanted to extend it's life and user friendliness.  Hence the arbor mod and cap post.  Next is reduced power bolt spring.

The post.

Uberti navy's have a deeper slot for safety pin than Pietta's so I really didn't have to cut on hammer.

30 rounds, no gap ingestition; it appears to work.  Gun was a little sticky to break free when cocking after those but not bad.  Retired satisfied.   :)
Firing seated the new engagement, and after cleanup it has a 0.007" cylinder gap.   

I've been trying to get smarter on how open tops fit.  Lots of good information here and on other sites.  One thing I didn't find was pictures to explain the relationships (maybe I just didn't look hard enough).  So I selfishly created these to ask the knowledgeable folks out there if I'm on track to figuring this out.

Opinions encouraged!

Our ideal fit:

If the gap is too wide we can slightly shorten arbor so long as contact is maintained with barrel.  If more gap reduction is needed we'd shorten both arbor and barrel at locator pins (or shorten frame if you can remove pins or work around them).

Often though we get a short arbor:

Problems can arise:

Another scenario can arise where arbor and barrel are in contact, but the barrel will contact the cylinder before it contacts the frame at the locator pins:

I actually have this with one of my Ubertis.  The arbor was too short and in the process of fitting the extension the arbor bottoms out, but the cylinder gap is ~.001" while a .006 feeler gauge fits between barrel and frame at locator pins.  It doesn't bind, at least not in a clean and oiled state; I haven't shot it like this.
I figure the hobbyist (one who lacks welding skills) has two principle options.
-a) shoot it as is
-b) shorten arbor to get contact at locator pins AND face off the rear of barrel at the forcing cone to set cylinder gap

I didn't really address wedge fit here.  Maybe someone can produce a part 2?

"Brand X" / .32 S&W Long
« on: January 13, 2018, 09:11:44 AM »

I've had this Smith Model 30-1for some time and decided to take it out Thursday.  55 F and the rain stopped how could I not?  (We're back in the deep freeze now.)

Factory LRN hadn't seemed terribly accurate when I first got it.  Tried loading some plated hollow base wadcutters.  It didn't seem like they were all that great either, and they shot low.  Began search for reasonable accuracy load that shot to the sights, might be a useful bunny gun or for the kids.

Turns out a .314 pin gauge will go into all six cylinder throats and a .315 will not, so I ordered some 100 grain cast wadcutters from Penn sized .314.  He offers a softer alloy upon request, although he tried to convince me to go with the standard "hard cast" alloy.  Can't see the advantage for revolver use at well under 1000 fps.

Being a solid framed gun with a reputation as being quite a bit stronger than the old top breaks I was a bit bolder with Bullseye for first cast bullet load than I might have been.

It was solid overcast and the last hour of daylight when I got out, not the best shooting conditions.  I had problems consistently seeing front sight but was pleased with results nonetheless.  First group, on left, was the plated HBWCs.  Still shot low but maybe I was wrong about this not being a good bullet for this gun .  Four rounds that would fit on a squirrels head at 25 yards?!  With all six in under two inches.  Next, as it was getting even darker, were the 100 gr .314ers on right.  A bit over two inches and just above POA; we may be on to something.  The cast load chrono'd a few rounds around 850 fps, a pleasant pop.  The plated hollow base loads ran ~650 fps and were silly low recoil.  I believe a .22 kicks more.  Even with low POI these would still be useful for introducing a youngster to revolvers.

I've got several grips besides the factory ones that fit a J-frame roundbutt.  Gonna see how those affect point of impact.

Oh yeah, since I was on a .32 kick, when I saw the post about Wells Fargo on sale my brain somehow said "you should get one".  😁

Army Models / New to me Uberti 1860 fluted
« on: September 26, 2017, 04:47:29 PM »
While at the NMLRA Nationals the other week I was hanging out in the Flintlocks, Inc. booth one evening listening to stories (there may or may not have been beverages) when I noticed an Uberti box on a shelf.  Saw it said 1860 and then saw said revolver in one of the front display cases with a VERY attractive price.  Mike had just taken it in on trade and wanted to move it quickly.  He pointed out the warts; none of which were a deal breaker, and in short order I became the proud owner.


Army Models / Unknown 1860
« on: June 30, 2017, 12:02:27 PM »

So, this is waiting for me when I get home.
Any ideas on who made it?  Date codes to 1980.

Wife stopped at estate sale and sent pics of some guns.
"1860 Army .44"  Seller didn't know manufacturer and she couldn't find  one on it.  Told her to make an offer and they took it!

At The Range! / NMLRA Spring shoot
« on: June 17, 2017, 12:33:20 PM »

Best target of the match for me.  Surprised me as I kinda had the jitters.

The dreaded brass frame, historically inaccurate, .44, "it'll self destruct if you load it with more than 3 grains of powder", Pietta.

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